It’s in the heart of Belair, right next to the church, that the Espaces Saveurs group has chosen to open its fifth address: Le Petit Bistro. The concept is an extension of the Bistro du Sommelier restaurant, located in the neighbouring Limpertsberg district. Delano’s sister publication Paperjam was at the first service on 24 April. Here’s a recap of their experience.
The ground floor of the building at 26 rue d’Amsterdam is now painted a lovely soft green. Due to the lack of sunshine, the terrace is not yet open, but we know from experience that as soon as the temperatures rise, it will fill up quickly.
“This is the first full reopening since the Gusto almost 12 years ago,” says Olivier Fellmann, co-founder of Espaces Saveurs. “It’s very exciting for us and marks a revival after this difficult post-covid period.”
A chic brasserie atmosphere
Inside, you can tell as soon as you step through the door that the atmosphere is cosy and contemporary. A fine selection of wines welcomes customers, undoubtedly one of the strong points of the establishment.
The room is divided into three ambiances designed by EL’LE Architects: a small, bright room on the right, with tables along a banquette and round tables opposite; a high, white-tiled counter in the central area opposite the bar, for more informal dining; and to the far left, a more subdued atmosphere, with a large burgundy-red wall and a green banquette winding through the centre of the room to structure the distribution of tables. In this way, each space and each table has its own strengths, and customers can choose the ambience that suits them best. Here and there, we find brasserie motifs: touches of copper and brass, black and white mosaic tiles, beautiful work on the light fittings and false ceilings.
A short, well-balanced menu
In the kitchen, chef Dylan Fillatre, who previously worked at Le Sapori, has found a new area of expression at Le Petit Bistro. The short will change regularly, approximately every month. It consists of boards and plates to share, a selection of five starters, two meat dishes and two fish dishes, and suggestions announced at the table.
The wine list is put together by Grégory Mio, named Luxembourg’s best sommelier in 2022. “The wine list currently features 200 references,” explains the sommelier. “But we’ll be working on it and adding to it over the coming weeks. I also hope to be able to offer great wines by the glass before long. I’ve already done this for other establishments, and I think that Le Petit Bistro is a good place to offer this to its customers too.”
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For our test lunch, we began with a slice of pâté en croûte to share as an aperitif. Presented with a small salad, the pâté was very tasty and dense, with a heart of foie gras, making it a real treat.
For the appetiser, we opted for a perfectly prepared beef tartare, with hazelnuts, pistachios and marrow bone, and barbecued leeks, crispy soft-boiled egg and smoked eel. The flavours were very well balanced.
Next, a heart of cod accompanied by peas, beans and wild garlic gnocchi--simultaneously tender and crunchy--and a fillet of Irish Prime beef with potatoes, carrots, red wine sauce and a tasty homemade béarnaise. And to finish on a sweet note, a salted butter caramel chocolate entremet, creamy chocolate cake, compact mousse, passion fruit coulis and chocolate crumble.
There’s no doubt that the quality of the products is there for all to see, and Chef Fillatre knows his stuff. Sommelier Mio listens carefully to his customers and is extremely precise in his advice. In the dining room, the team is led by Réa Fellmann, who brings together a young and dynamic team of 12 people. “This establishment is also proof that the next generation is here,” says Fellmann. “I’m pleased that there are still young people who want to do this job, including my daughter, and who have faith in the profession.”
In any case, for this first service, the room was already full, with customers who clearly know and appreciate the quality of the establishments in the Espace Saveurs group and who wanted to take advantage of this moment to show their support, and enjoy themselves over a good meal. The establishment was clearly eagerly awaited in the neighbourhood.
26 rue d’Amsterdam, Luxembourg-Belair, tel: 25 29 69
Open Wednesday to Sunday, lunchtime (12pm-2pm) and evening (7pm-10pm)
This article was first published in French on . It has been translated and edited for Delano.