The story behind Struwweltëntert is a little unusual: this place brings together a restaurant, a café and a grocery shop in the small village of Tuntange, which since the merger with Boevange-sur-Attert in 2018 has been part of the municipality of Helperknapp. It is housed on the ground floor of an ordinary roadside residence. But the premises, which belong to the local authority, have been fitted out and run by a trio of dynamic entrepreneurs with determined ambitions, and the result is well worth a visit to this small town in the north-west of the country.
“In the past, we had more pubs than inhabitants,” introduces mayor Paul Mangen ironically. “That’s no longer the case. We were missing a meeting point, a place where residents could get together in a friendly atmosphere, as well as a small village grocery shop. That’s why the local council decided to buy this vast 400m2 commercial premises with the intention of turning it into a place for the villagers.”
The local authority contacted Belvedere Architecture to carry out a feasibility and planning study. They envisaged a space that could accommodate as many functions as possible: a restaurant or brasserie, a café, a grocery shop, etc. “We worked from the shell of the building, took into account the split-levels imposed by the slope of the land and defined a programme that was sufficiently open to invite applications from the future operator,” explains Patrick Meyer, director of Belvedere.
Our aim in bringing together several functions is also to have a venue that can be open all day long.
“Our aim in bringing several functions together is also to have a place that can be open all day long,” explains the mayor, who is leading this highly unusual initiative with his local council. It’s both an opportunity and a challenge for the team, who have to find the right functions for the place to function in this way. To give the operator as much support as possible, the local authority has decided to charge a moderate rent, which is progressive over the years. “We also agreed to pay for all the equipment on the premises, including the purchase of furniture,” adds Mangen. It’s a substantial financial commitment, therefore, for this small community, which is thus endeavouring to recreate a village activity and appeal.
A winning cooperative
To achieve this, the municipality launched a call for applications, and the project led by the Coreca cooperative was chosen. “Our concept matured and evolved over the course of the application process, which lasted a long time, all the longer since covid came in and forced us to play for time and think again,” explains Jacques Hoffmann, chairman of the cooperative and a resident of Tuntange. Together with Christophe Kremer and Joran Didelot, they have developed a business that includes a restaurant, a café-brewery and a grocery shop.
“The cooperative form allows us to combine the necessary profitability of this business with the social aspect that is important to us. Every employee is involved in the results of the business because they have a stake in it,” adds Kremer. As for the name, the three friends chose that of a very hardy mushroom that grows on poor soil, the “Struwweltëntert.” “It seemed to fit our situation,” says Kremer philosophically.
A bistronomic restaurant
The three friends have put their respective skills to good use and set up the Beim Struwwel restaurant, which offers bistronomic cuisine. The cuisine is prepared by Didelot, who trained as a mathematician but has a passion for gastronomy and has worked in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants, where he has retained the spirit and technical skills. “The menu, comprising four starters, four main courses and four desserts, changes every six weeks. It’s made with seasonal produce, as local as possible. We also have a weekly menu,” explains the chef. His cuisine is creative, inspired by all the regions of the world, keeping only the best of each culinary culture. “I work with local producers as much as possible,” says Didelot. In the same spirit, he also makes his own sourdough breads and sauces. During our visit, we were able to try perfectly mastered mackerel fillets, a very successful vegetarian Wellington and a delicious cheesecake with matcha ice cream.
A friendly café and grocery shop
In addition to the restaurant, the Struwweltëntert is also a café (the Tëntert). As well as hot and cold drinks, customers can order a few simpler dishes than in the restaurant: falafel, burger, pulled pork, charcuterie or cheese boards, etc. “This allows us to have different offerings in the same place,” stresses Hoffmann. On the one hand, there’s a more relaxed sit-down meal, where you take your time, and on the other, there’s a more brasserie feel, for a meal on-the-go.
Surrounding them are the grocery shelves, which offer more delicatessen products, complemented by basic foodstuffs for everyday use. There are no packets of nappies here, for example, but rather eggs, dairy products, cold meats, cereals, pasta, prepared sauces, tinned food, etc.
An open yet intimate space
From an architectural point of view, the project was designed by Belvedere Architecture. From the entrance, the view looks out over the open kitchen and the restaurant tables are positioned along this axis. The bar is on the right; in the centre, tables and armchairs close to the large windows overlook the street. The grocery shelving gives structure to the space, dividing it up in a fluid way. You know immediately where you are and what’s going on here.
“We have developed a space that remains open, with more enclosed, more intimate areas that allow people to be together while at the same time being discreet,” explains Meyer, architect and director of Belvedere Architecture. “In this way, everyone can find a place to suit their mood and their needs, whether they are in a group or alone, whether they want to be hidden or more exposed, whether they come here to meet, eat, relax or work on their laptop.” Between the café and the restaurant, there is also a family corner, with games for younger children.
A children’s play area is planned. Photo: Belvedere Architecture
“We deliberately left the ceilings bare, with the technology exposed, to gain as much headroom as possible,” explains Lorenz Reiter, the Belvedere architect in charge of the project. “This has enabled us to install high-quality acoustic equipment that enhances comfort in this large space.”
In terms of clientele, it is of course the villagers who are primarily concerned. But the proximity of the bus hub also means that local residents can come here by public transport. In the coming months, a new nursing home and pharmacy will be built in the community, which could create a new dynamic in the vicinity of the Struwwel. It should also be noted that Coreca is actively involved in rural life, as in addition to the establishment in Tuntange, it also runs the Épicerie Am Duerf in Schrondweiler and plans to open another grocery shop in Heffingen in the near future.
16 Rue de Luxembourg, L-7480 Tuntange. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
This article was originally published in .